Over the past few years, however, manufacturers have made a concerted effort to design their products to use this technology for attaching their products. Attach blocks and fittings with soft loops.ĭyneema loops, whether single pass or covered multiple-pass loops, have been around for many years. If they’re closed properly, they tighten down on themselves when loaded, and will not open.Ħ. The shackles can have a “leash” or opener, and a safety Velcro if preferred. One of the best ways to use them is to have an eye in the end your halyard, and stitch the soft shackle into the eye. They can be made to any desired length and working strength, and their weight is negligible. The best application is as a halyard shackle. ![]() Attach your halyards without using hard shackles.Ī soft shackle is simply Dyneema with a sliding eye splice and a knot at the other end. It also prevents knots from getting hung up during tacks, and because there are no knots to tie, trim marks are consistent.ĥ. This setup eliminates hardware banging around on the shrouds, mast, and crew. Most sailmakers offer a flap with Velcro closure that goes over the fitting to secure the attachment. To attach the sheet to the sail, the Dyneema loop goes over the T, through the two sheets’ eyes, and then over the T the other way. Your sheets simply have an eye spliced into the end of each. A fitting, which looks like a clew ring with a “T” facing into the sail, is sewn into the clew of your jib. T-Ring systems are a great option available to sailmakers and riggers. These markers are specific to your line and are not going anywhere. Gone are the days of permanent markers, whippings, or tape. Blend hoist marks into your halyard covers.Īs with the glow-in-the-dark markers, these marks can be woven into the cover at a pre-determined location in the rope. Use it for all your halyards and sheets, or select a few control lines that you need to quickly identify at night.ģ. Some manufacturers, such as Marlow, now offer this for full lengths, or certain spans of your specified lines. ![]() You can now have custom lines made with glow-in-the-dark markers wound into the cover. Dyneema is UV stable and chemically inert, but the best part about this option is that it is much less expensive than a comparable wire lifeline assembly.Ģ. It is suggested that you have a Dyneema cover spliced into the portions that pass through the stanchions. With Dyneema, you simply luggage-tag the forward eye splice onto your pulpit, run the lifelines through your stanchions, put a friction ring into the aft eye, and lash it to the stern pulpit. You are also able to eliminate all the associated hardware, including toggles, eyes, and turnbuckles. Dyneema is the best option, especially Dyneema SK90, which is up to three times stronger than similar sized 1×19 stainless steel wire. Wire lifelines are history (unless your one-design class rules state otherwise). I’ll share some the best new ideas from the industry, as well as a few easy upgrades to consider before your next racing season. When it comes to utilizing cordage in all sorts of inventive ways, the good ideas never seem to stop coming. The rigger‘s obsession doesn’t end with an excessively milked splice, however. ![]() Professional riggers are consummate tinkerers: Put a length of rope in their hands, and they’ll immediately start thinking of ways to splice it, strip it, taper it, and ultimately avoid using any sort of knot, which we all know can compromise a rope’s breaking strength. Always be on the lookout for ways to improve your setup.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |